Location: Near the Zona Dorada in Mazatlán, the hub of tourist pleasure.
Conditions: The breeze and cool ocean water wash off the hot, muggy air of the city.
Someone asked me in California, "You're writing about the environment in Mexico? I bet people are more worried about the drug war and staying alive." I would come face to face with this issue once I arrived in the mainland. Like an absurd nightmare, the guy's face appeared everywhere you looked in Mazatlán — on every street post, plastered on cars, billboards and buses. Like it was relentlessly stalking you, the advertising campaign for candidate Jesus Vizcarra, running for governor of Sinaloa (the elections were July 4th) gave new meaning to the word omnipresent. "As you eat lunch at the restaurant, you might discover his face on the plate through the rice and beans," laughed Edgar, a surfer I met on the beach. How in heaven is so much money spent on ads?